Face shots with every turn, the thrill of surfing through bottomless powder - I’d heard about the legendary snow in Japan, but I didn’t fully understand it until I visited Hokkaido. It’s no exaggeration to say this island has some of the best powder in the world.
Every winter, cold air sweeps down from Siberia, collects moisture over the Sea of Japan, and unloads it on Hokkaido’s west coast. Orographic lift does the rest, creating snow - lots of it. Google the snowiest towns, and you’ll find Sapporo, Hokkaido’s largest city, consistently ranking near the top.
Hokkaido’s fame for powder and sushi drew us in after terrible ski conditions and two weeks of -40°C temperatures hit Western Canada. I’d heard about Hokkaido’s incredible skiing from Conrad Anker during a drive to Hyalite Canyon, where bucket-list trips came up. Skiing Hokkaido in January was one of his picks that he had yet to experience. With an extended forecast of -40, three days later, we were on a flight to Japan.
With little time to plan, I reached out to friends for advice and GPS tracks, which gave us a loose itinerary: ski Mt Shiribetsu, Mt. Yotei, and areas around Kiroro, Niseko and Furano. We landed without bookings - no accommodations, no car, just a plan to follow the snow. After arriving on the heels of a 1.5m storm and with another in the forecast, we secured a car and started chasing powder.
Otaru and Kiroro: The Powder Gateway
We based ourselves in Otaru initially, a port city known for its sushi. Although far from the larger resorts, its proximity to Kiroro Ski Resort made it an ideal starting point. Kiroro’s terrain is small, but the snow is unmatched-and practically no one was in the backcountry despite easy access.
With the deep snow, setting the uptrack was no small task. My Majesty Vanguards, with their 118mm underfoot, provided the flotation I needed, and on days when other groups were around, we joined forces to break trail. Even then, there was no shortage of fresh turns.
Niseko and Beyond: Resorts and Volcanoes
After several powder-filled days in Kiroro, we moved closer to Niseko, the epicenter of Hokkaido’s ski scene. While Niseko’s resorts are modern and busy, we focused on touring nearby peaks like Mt. Shiribetsu and Mt. Yotei. Mt Shiribetsu offers steeper terrain and some avalanche risk, while Yotei’s volcanic slopes feature stunning views and exciting lines.
Tim Banfield