Unlocking Alaska: Northern Lessons
Skiing in a new place is like unlocking a new level in a video game, where the vague turns to vivid with every step. You start with a general idea – the Alaska Range is just outside Anchorage, with some of the biggest mountains. As you begin to research, things come into focus – Denali, Hunter, and other giants. But it’s not until I lay my eyes on an area that the map truly begins to take shape.
Our plan was simple: camp on a glacier with good friends and ski as much as possible. Fortunately, I had three friends who were all in. I love trips and partners where you say, “Hey, I’m planning an expedition,” and their reply is simply, “I’m in!” No questions asked.
When our ride from Talkeetna Air Taxi roared away and left us alone at camp, I realized just how much of the terrain was still a grey area in my mind. Despite that uncertainty, there’s something I love about feeling so isolated in such a vast and complex place. We had everything we needed to survive – the best equipment, plenty of food, and a well-trained team.
At basecamp, the contrast between simplicity and complexity weighs on every decision. On one hand, the mountains around us are intricate and unpredictable, offering plenty of “look but don’t touch” moments. On the other hand, our situation is straightforward. We’re confined to one place, with only what we see around us.
During the rest of the winter, we pour tons of mental energy into deciding where to ski – considering wind, snow accumulation, sun exposure, and more. But here, there’s no driving to another zone or comparing weather stations. It’s just what we see from the tent window. The entire experience feels more like solving a puzzle.
I struggled to find my rhythm with the avalanche conditions – in fact, I struggled to connect with the mountains in general. The sun barely set, making it hard to figure out the orientation of any given slope. The glaciers were massive and deceiving. What looked like a short glide was an hour-long shuffle.
The snowpack was unfamiliar, with a persistent basal weak layer and an overall more continental nature than I was used to. Add in 20 hours of sunlight and pulses of precipitation, and it was difficult to make sense of what was happening.
The wind was equally tricky – calm in camp, while clouds raced along the ridgelines.
So, what do we do with all this uncertainty? We ski, cautiously at first. Light snowfall and low visibility forced us to seek out tight couloirs, where we could distinguish between the snow, the walls, and the sky.
We search for subtle variations in slope, hoping to uncover that sliver of soft chalk between sun-baked slush and icy crust.
Conditions dictated our moves, but we made solid decisions when it came to avalanche hazards. Ultimately, for us, Alaska wasn’t about iconic steep and deep spine walls this time, but rather nine days of adventure skiing and shared moments with good friends in a breathtaking wilderness.
Majesty Athlete Eric Carter was joined by partners Pat Valade, Brian Burger, and Max Kronek for their May 2024 expedition into the Eastern Alaska Range.
Article written by Eric Carter. All images credit @Pat Valade www.patvalade.com.
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